A guide to Albania, Europe’s best-kept secret

Year after year, Europe is on the minds of countless travellers living in the Middle East, eager to escape the scorching temperatures of summer. One country, however, remains under the radar despite occupying prime real estate in the Mediterranean: Albania. Located north of Greece and south of Montenegro, this Muslim-majority nation in the Balkan Peninsula boasts age-old traditions, a charming coastline and a cuisine driven by locally sourced ingredients.

Then there’s the ancient code of honour, besa, translating to the kind of hospitality that can restore one’s faith in humanity. And because Albania isn’t part of the Schengen Area, the independent e-visa process is a breeze to navigate. Another bonus: it’s yet to be overrun by mass tourism, so visitors can still enjoy untamed beauty across the country – outdoorsy types tend to hit the popular hiking trails in the Albanian Alps up north, while leisure seekers are more drawn to the picturesque Albanian Riviera in the south. As for what makes it especially fascinating? A highly unusual past. If you are planning a trip, these are the best places to visit in Albania.

Sheshi Skenderbej square in Tirana

 Andrea Pistolesi

Tirana

To truly appreciate Albania is to understand its backstory and the vibrant capital of Tirana makes for a great base to learn about why it is the land of bunkers. Oh so many bunkers. An exact figure is impossible to determine (some have been recycled, others destroyed), but records claim there are somewhere between 175,000 and 750,000 of these abandoned concrete mushrooms in existence. Personifying the paranoia that defined the communist leadership of Enver Hoxha from 1944 until his death in 1985, they were built primarily in strategic locations like clifftops, but are also anchored in the fields, on street corners and along coastlines in case of a raid by enemies – enemies that proved illusory. And with Hoxha withdrawing Albania from international politics and economic trade agreements entirely, it only opened its doors to tourists after the fall of communism in 1991.

Today, many of the surviving bunkers have evolved into social and cultural spaces like lounges, bars, pizzerias, tattoo parlours and artist studios, showcasing the ingenuity of modern-day Albanians. In Tirana, for example, one of the bigger bunkers now stands as Bunk’Art 2, a 24-room museum that reconstructs the history of the Ministry of Internal Affairs from 1912 to 1991, by recreating its interrogation cells, vivid imagery and art installations. Some of the exhibits and details are not surprisingly disturbing, but it’s a genuinely engaging space, nonetheless. The city is also home to House of Leaves, an intriguing museum occupying the building that was once used by the Gestapo during World War II, before serving as part of the relentless surveillance tactics of the communist state’s political police, Sigurimi; yet another harsh persecution tool employed by Hoxha.

An old concrete bunker in a memorial park in Tirana

 Perboge/Getty Images

Smaller in scale but equally worth visiting is the open-air museum of Postbllok – Checkpoint. Here, three poignant exhibits is all it takes to highlight the atrocities of communism. Take the time to linger by the deeply personal abstract sculpture. Writer Fatos Lubonja designed the installation using concrete girders from the Stalinist-inspired Spaç Prison, where he served a 17-year sentence after authorities accused him of criticising Hoxha’s regime. Interestingly, the trendy district of Blloku is located around the corner, exemplifying the charm of Tirana – symbols of social progress and economic development are unapologetically interspersed with reminders of a troubled past. Head to the eclectic Komiteti to see this dichotomy in action. Between craft raki, live jazz sessions and a display of 17,000 antiques, this café-museum hybrid is the perfect place to mingle with young locals, many of whom have strong opinions on what it means to live in a more liberal – and increasingly ambitious – Albania.

Tirana’s thriving dining scene is also a sign of the times. Between the abundance of Mediterranean produce and the warmth of Balkan gastronomy – coupled with Ottoman influences – Albanian cuisine is both multi-faceted and central to the country’s identity, but its revival hasn’t come easily. Alongside nearly half a century of political oppression, the communist government also restricted the consumption of meat and dairy, inevitably resulting in the loss of cooking traditions over time. At Mullixhiu, however, chef-founder Bledar Kola of Noma fame is on a mission to research and reinterpret Albania’s culinary heritage. Recognised by 50 Best Discovery, the tasting menu at this slow food institution features a culinary greatest hits – eight courses that include delicate, flaky trout from the Cem river and fli, a multi-layered pastry with pastoral roots.

Incidentally, it’s not just the preservation of their cuisine that Albanians hold dear. They still abide by the longstanding practice of xhiro, gathering in groups for a leisurely stroll come sunset, and Skanderbeg Square is a prime example of where this cherished social activity takes place. Join them, and take in a handful of key attractions at this sizeable public square. Reopening as a house of worship in 1991 (communist rule brought with it a complete ban on all religions), Et’hem Bey Mosque is considered unique due to the motifs that adorn its frescoes – depictions of forests and waterfalls are a rare sight in mosques worldwide. Up ahead, Kulla e Sahatit is a 35-metre-high clock tower that has told time since 1822. Make peace with both heights and confined stairwells because a climb to the top of this Ottoman-era monument is rewarded with views over Skanderbeg Square and beyond.

The old buildings of Gjirokastër, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

 Chiara Salvadori/Getty Images

Berat or Gjirokastër?

Both historical cities make for excellent contenders when it comes to exploring the Ottoman Albania period, an influence that continues to be felt to this day – with the Ottoman Empire enjoying a reign of more than 500 years, it profoundly influenced everything from cuisine and religion to governance. And while day trips from Tirana to Berat and Gjirokastër are doable, making more room in your itinerary to explore is worthwhile.

Our vote goes to Gjirokastër. Aptly nicknamed the “City of Stone”, it might as well take centre stage in a fairytale. Steep cobblestone streets guide visitors up to the imposing Gjirokastër Castle, one of the biggest in the Balkans, for unmatched views of the Gjere Mountains and Drino Valley. The climb, although somewhat strenuous, is part of the experience – a landscape of greenery and perfectly preserved Ottoman architecture is interrupted only by stray dogs vying for a spot in the shade and the occasional elderly woman hawking freshly picked coltsfoot flowers for tea. You’ll have to pry yourself away from the atmospheric Old Bazaar first.

Odaja wins rave reviews for its honey-smothered cheese, a local take on saganaki, and arancini-like qifqi that’s native to the city, but just about everything at this family-run spot feels like a revelation. Nearby, both Vjollca Mezini and Muhedin Makri deserve a visit, even if your luggage can’t accommodate their wares. Between her hand-embroidered products and his artworks crafted entirely from stone, it’s easy to see why this historic site (the bazaar dates back to the 17th century) and its many artisans form the heart of Gjirokastër. It’s also here that a rather pioneering gem awaits. Home of Polyphony, an initiative that aims to protect and promote Albania’s traditional folk music, has taken up residence in one of the city’s many Cold War tunnels.

The sparkling Albanian Riviera

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Sarandë or Himarë?

Extending nearly 450 kilometres along the Adriatic and Ionian seas (the two meet at the port town of Vlorë), Albania’s coastline offers something for every type of traveller thanks to its sheer range of crumbling ruins, picturesque villages, natural wonders, secret beaches and bustling urban centres. The country’s public transport system can be unreliable, so you’re better off booking a private taxi to the Albanian Riviera, or Bregu as it is colloquially known. But first, your choice of base.